Cuc Phuong National Park: Vietnam's Oldest Forest
Cuc Phuong, Vietnam's first national park (1962): what the old forest is like, when to go, and how to add it to a two-day Ninh Binh trip with Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and Mua Cave.
By AmGo Travel6 min read
Cuc Phuong National Park is the green side of Ninh Binh. Most visitors come for the boats and karsts of Trang An and Tam Coc, but a short drive west the limestone hills are covered in old-growth tropical forest, and that forest became Vietnam's first national park in 1962. If you want a day of tall trees, birdsong and shade after the busy boat piers, this is where to go. This guide explains what Cuc Phuong is, what a forest day feels like, when to go and how to fit it into a two-day Ninh Binh trip, written by the AmGo Travel team in Hanoi's Old Quarter.
What is Cuc Phuong?
Cuc Phuong is a protected area of tropical forest growing on limestone hills, on the western edge of Ninh Binh. It was established in 1962, which makes it the oldest national park in Vietnam. The forest here was never cleared for rice, so it keeps a different character from the rest of the province: big old trees with buttress roots, vines, ferns, and a canopy that keeps the trails shaded even at midday.
The park is also known for its wildlife and conservation work. It is home to the Endangered Primate Rescue Center, which cares for rare langurs and gibbons, and in spring the forest is famous among Vietnamese travellers for its clouds of butterflies. You should not expect to see big animals on a short visit, though. Most of the life in an old forest is heard rather than seen.
Why add Cuc Phuong to a Ninh Binh trip?
A classic Ninh Binh day is full: Hoa Lu, a boat through the caves, a climb to a viewpoint, and a lot of other visitors doing the same. Cuc Phuong is the opposite. There are no boat queues and no souvenir lanes, just forest trails and quiet.
It works best as the second day of a two-day trip. On the first day you see the famous sights of Ninh Binh, you sleep in the countryside instead of driving back to Hanoi, and the next morning you head into the forest while the air is still cool. You get both sides of the province without spending a whole day on the road.
It is a good choice if you:
- Enjoy walking and nature more than sightseeing from a boat.
- Have already done a Ninh Binh day trip and want something different.
- Are travelling with older children who like forests and animals.
- Want a slower trip with one night outside the city.
What a forest day feels like
Your day in Cuc Phuong is spent among old-growth trees on limestone hills. Trails wind between huge trunks and moss-covered rocks, and the ground is often uneven, with roots and stone steps. The pace is easy, but you are on your feet for much of the day, so comfortable shoes with a good grip matter more than anything else you pack.
Your guide will tell you about the forest, its trees and its wildlife as you walk. After the forest, you travel back to Hanoi in the afternoon.
The two-day Ninh Binh trip with Cuc Phuong
Our two-day tour pairs the classic Ninh Binh sights with a day in the forest:
Day 1: Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and Mua Cave. Pick-up in Hanoi's Old Quarter and a drive south by shuttle bus or limousine, with drinking water on board. You start at Hoa Lu, Vietnam's capital in the 10th century under the Dinh and Le dynasties, and visit the temples of its kings. Lunch is a premium buffet at Trang An Eco Restaurant. In the afternoon you go to Tam Coc, the "Ha Long Bay on land", where the Ngo Dong River winds through three caves between rice fields and cliffs. Then you climb more than 500 steps up Ngoa Long Mountain at Mua Cave for a panorama over Ninh Binh. Sport bicycles are provided, along with a raincoat or conical hat depending on the weather.
The night. You sleep in a bungalow with a pool at Trang An Holiday Retreat, surrounded by the countryside. If you prefer a hotel, you can choose Nam Hoa Hotel 3, Lalita Boutique Hotel 4 or Hidden Charm Hotel 4* instead.
Day 2: Cuc Phuong forest. You leave the retreat for Cuc Phuong and spend the day in the old forest, then travel back to Hanoi.
If you would rather spend the second day on water than in the forest, there is also a two-day trip that starts with Bai Dinh Pagoda and the caves of Trang An, stays at the same retreat, and finishes with Hoa Lu, Tam Coc by boat and the Mua Cave summit.
For more on the viewpoint, read our Mua Cave guide.
When to go
Cuc Phuong is open all year, and each season gives it a different mood:
- Spring (around March to May): fresh green leaves and, in many years, the butterfly season that Cuc Phuong is known for.
- Summer (June to August): the forest is at its greenest, but it is hot and humid and heavy showers are common. The shade of the canopy helps.
- Autumn (September to November): many travellers' favourite time in northern Vietnam, with milder temperatures and drier trails.
- Winter (December to February): cool and sometimes grey, but comfortable for walking if you bring a light jacket.
Tips for your forest day
- Wear proper shoes. Trails can be muddy and rocky, especially after rain. Trainers with a good grip are fine; sandals are not.
- Cover up. Long, light trousers and insect repellent make the walk more pleasant, especially in the wet months.
- Carry water and a small bag. Keep your hands free for the steps and the uneven ground.
- Keep your voice down. Your chance of hearing birds and monkeys goes up the quieter the group is.
- Plan the Mua Cave climb for day 1. You will be fresher for the 500+ steps than after a day of forest walking.
- Pack for one night. You only need a small overnight bag, and the pool at the retreat is welcome after a day of sightseeing, so bring swimwear.
FAQ
Is Cuc Phuong worth visiting? Yes, if you enjoy nature and quiet. It is very different from the boat trips in Trang An and Tam Coc: old forest, shade and walking instead of karst views from the water. It is the oldest national park in Vietnam, established in 1962.
Can I visit Cuc Phuong on a day trip from Hanoi? It is easier as part of a two-day Ninh Binh trip. On our tour you see Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and Mua Cave on day 1, sleep near Trang An, and spend day 2 in the forest before returning to Hanoi.
Is the forest walk difficult? The pace is easy, but the ground is uneven, with roots, rocks and steps. Anyone who is comfortable walking for a few hours on a trail will manage. Good shoes are essential.
Which meals are included? On the two-day Cuc Phuong tour, the Day 1 buffet lunch at Trang An Eco Restaurant is included. The other meals are confirmed with you when you book.
Can children join? Yes. Children 1–4 travel free when they share a seat and bed with their parents, and children 5–8 pay a reduced price. The forest is a good outing for kids who like walking.
Can I cancel? Yes. Cancellation is free with a full refund up to one day before the tour starts.
Where can I book a Cuc Phuong tour? AmGo Travel, a Vietnamese team of trip planners and guides with an office at 61 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, runs two-day Ninh Binh trips that include a day in Cuc Phuong forest. You can book at amgotravel.com or message the team on WhatsApp.
Ninh Binh two-day tours with AmGo Travel
See all Ninh Binh tours, or message AmGo Travel on WhatsApp and a local trip planner will help you choose between the forest and the river for your second day.
