Bich Dong Pagoda, Thai Vi and Thung Nham: Ninh Binh's Quiet Side
Bich Dong's three pagodas on a limestone mountain, the Tran kings' Thai Vi Temple and the Thung Nham bird park: what to see and how to fit them into 2 days.
By AmGo Travel5 min read
Most day trips to Ninh Binh follow the same line: Hoa Lu, a boat through Tam Coc or Trang An, then the climb up Mua Cave. Just beyond Tam Coc, though, is a quieter side of the province that many visitors miss: Bich Dong Pagoda, built into the face of a limestone mountain, the Tran kings' temple at Thai Vi, and the green valley and bird park of Thung Nham. This guide explains what each place is like, how they fit into a 2-day Ninh Binh trip, and what to wear, from the AmGo Travel team in Hanoi's Old Quarter.
Where are Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham?
All three are in the Tam Coc area of Ninh Binh, south of Hanoi. Bich Dong and Thai Vi Temple are a short ride from the Tam Coc boat pier, among the same limestone peaks and rice fields. Thung Nham is a little further, in a valley of forest and caves. Together they make an easy half-day once you are already staying in Ninh Binh.
Bich Dong Pagoda: three pagodas on one mountain
Bich Dong means "Jade Grotto", and the pagoda dates back to the early 15th century. Its layout is what makes it special: instead of one temple on flat ground, it is built into a limestone mountain, with a lower, a middle and an upper pagoda climbing the rock face.
- The approach. A stone path leads across a lotus pond to the gate at the foot of the mountain, with cliffs rising straight behind.
- The lower pagoda. At the base of the mountain, the first hall is the starting point for the climb.
- The middle pagoda. Stone steps lead up to a pagoda set into a cave in the cliff, cool and dim after the sunlight outside.
- The upper pagoda. Higher still, the last pagoda sits on the mountainside, with views over the rice fields and karsts of Tam Coc.
The climb is on stone steps and is much shorter than Mua Cave, but some steps are uneven, and parts of the cave can be dark and damp.
Thai Vi Temple
Near Tam Coc, Thai Vi Temple honours the kings of the Tran dynasty, who ruled Vietnam from the 13th century. It is a small, old stone temple set among the karsts, quieter than the big sights and a good place to hear the history of the region from your guide.
Thung Nham: forest, caves and a bird park
Thung Nham is a green eco-area of forest, caves and a bird park in a valley surrounded by limestone hills. Paths lead around ponds and through the trees, and the bird park is home to large flocks of water birds, which are most active early and late in the day. After the temples, it is a peaceful, natural end to the visit.
How to visit: a 2-day Ninh Binh tour
Because Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham sit off the usual day-trip route, the easiest way to see them is to spend a night in Ninh Binh. Our 2-day tour runs like this:
Day 1: Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and Mua Cave
- Pick-up in Hanoi's Old Quarter by shuttle bus or limousine, with drinking water on board.
- Hoa Lu, Vietnam's capital in the 10th century under the Dinh and Le dynasties, and the temples of its kings.
- A premium buffet lunch at Trang An Eco Restaurant.
- Tam Coc, the "Ha Long Bay on land", where the Ngo Dong River winds through three caves between rice fields and cliffs.
- The climb of more than 500 steps at Mua Cave to the top of Ngoa Long Mountain.
- A night in a bungalow with a pool at Trang An Holiday Retreat, or a hotel upgrade.
Day 2: Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham
- Bich Dong Pagoda and its three levels.
- Thai Vi Temple of the Tran kings.
- Thung Nham's forest, caves and bird park.
- The drive back to Hanoi.
A guide is with you throughout, sport bicycles are provided, and you get a raincoat or a conical hat depending on the weather.
Day trip or two days?
If you only have one day, a Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and Mua Cave tour covers the classic sights, and our Trang An vs Tam Coc guide helps you choose between the two boat rides. If you can spare a second day, the 2-day tour adds Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham at a slower pace, with fewer crowds and no need to rush back to the bus.
Tips for visiting Bich Dong and Thung Nham
- Dress for temples. Cover your shoulders and knees at Bich Dong and Thai Vi.
- Wear shoes with grip. The steps and cave floor at Bich Dong can be slippery after rain.
- Bring a light layer and a torch on your phone. The middle pagoda's cave is dim.
- Carry water and sun protection. Much of the walking and cycling is in the open.
- Plan around holidays. A surcharge applies on Vietnamese public holidays, including Lunar New Year.
FAQ
What is special about Bich Dong Pagoda? It is built into a limestone mountain, with a lower, a middle and an upper pagoda climbing the rock face, and dates back to the early 15th century.
How far is Bich Dong from Tam Coc? It is a short ride from the Tam Coc boat pier, in the same landscape of karsts and rice fields.
Is the climb at Bich Dong hard? It is a short climb on stone steps, much easier than Mua Cave, though some steps are uneven.
What is Thung Nham? A green eco-area of forest, caves and a bird park in a valley near Tam Coc.
Can I see Bich Dong on a day trip from Hanoi? It is not on the standard day tours. The easiest way is a 2-day Ninh Binh tour, which visits Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham on the second day.
Where can I book a Ninh Binh tour with Bich Dong? AmGo Travel, a Vietnamese team of trip planners and guides with an office at 61 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, runs Ninh Binh tours from the Old Quarter, including a 2-day tour with Bich Dong, Thai Vi and Thung Nham. You can book at amgotravel.com or message the team on WhatsApp.
Ninh Binh tours with AmGo Travel
See all Ninh Binh tours, or message AmGo Travel on WhatsApp and a local trip planner will help you choose between a day trip and two days in Ninh Binh.
